Categories
Adrian Flowers Photography Archive

Memories of Flowers

Tripe + Drisheen

Lives Less Ordinary

Memories of Flowers

In Ballydehob, the enormous photographic archive of a London photographer who holidayed in West Cork raises questions about memories and loss; about what we keep, and what we let go. 

Ellie O’Byrne

Mar 11, 2023

Francesca Flowers, courtesy of the Adrian Flowers archive

Where do we start, when something is so vast? 

We might as well start with one black and white snapshot of a laughing girl. She’s hanging onto the post of a four-poster bed. Behind her, there’s a portrait of another child. And there’s a set of filing cabinets. 

“I’d say I was about ten or eleven there,” Francesca Flowers says, smiling. “I think I was taking pictures of my dad and my step-mum, and then they took a picture of me. That was actually their bedroom.” She pauses. “I look happy enough.” 

The little boy in the portrait behind 11-year-old Francesca is her eldest brother, Adam, she tells me.

“My dad had it blown up really large with a dot-screen filter. I went to visit my brother recently, and he’s got the print hanging in his house. It really is enormous.” 

Francesca is the youngest child of photographer Adrian Flowers, who ran a photographic studio in Chelsea for decades, photographing stars of the swinging sixties including Twiggy, Michael Caine, Vanessa Redgrave and Alec Guinness, but also forging a strikingly successful career in advertising work and editorials for magazines including The Observer. 

Francesca Flowers with part of her father Adrian’s archive. Photo: Ellie O’Byrne

Francesca is standing in front of some filing cabinets while we talk, in the house on Ballydehob’s main street that she’s renovating with her partner, the former director of the Crawford Art Gallery, Peter Murray. 

They may even be the same ones as those in the black and white photo we are looking at.

These cabinets, and others, contain an estimated 250,000 negatives, transparencies and prints amassed during her father’s career. And now, it’s Francesca’s self-imposed task to set about ordering this enormous and impressive archive. 

Working from the contents of the filing cabinets, which contain brown A4 envelopes, each one labelled with a “job number” and containing a varying number of negatives or transparencies, sometimes also polaroids of lighting set-ups, as well as yellow “job cards” with a corresponding number and detailed description, Francesca has been making a digital index of the collection on an Excel spreadsheet. 

“I get a pile of envelopes and input them into the spreadsheet, and if there’s missing information I have to go to the job cards,” she says. “I try to include as much information as possible: art director, client etcetera. So that’s a very big job in itself.” 

“And sometimes I can only find a print and no neg, or worse still I find the envelope is missing. That can be frustrating.”

Although they’re called “jobs,” Adrian didn’t only catalogue and number his commercial studio work, but also his own more creative or experimental work, as well as personal photos of family, or his beloved little dog. 

He was particularly driven to document and archive and methodically store his work.

“Whether it was what he would call an experimental or non-experimental job, every single one would have a number and it didn’t matter if that was family or personal stuff: it all got a number,” Francesca says. “That’s quite organised.” 

Vinegar syndrome

Many of the negatives are now emitting a tell-tale vinegary odour known as vinegar syndrome. If anything, this makes the work of digitising the archive even more urgent: connected to problems with fixing, vinegar syndrome is the release of acetic gas from the acetate film. 

As the gas is released, over time, the emulsion layer of the film, the part that holds the image, will decay and the image will be lost. It will fade from memory.

The stuff merchant

Adrian Flowers died in 2016, at 89 years of age. He had suffered from Alzheimer’s towards the end, and had been in a care home for the final year of his life. 

He moved to Lot-et-Garonne in South-western France in the nineties, where a vast barn alongside the house he shared with his second wife, Françoise, contained what he referred to as his “stuff:” not only his negatives and paperwork, but a vast array of props and knick-knacks.

“It’s such a contradiction, but he was quite fanatical about keeping things, and could also be quite disorganised,” Francesca says. “The essence of this archive of 12 filing cabinets was just a speck compared to this enormous barn where he kept everything: all his props, everything from his studio.”  

The filing cabinets in Lot-et-Garonne. Photo: The Adrian Flowers Archive

Adrian’s amassing of stuff went beyond just absent-mindedly hanging on to things: he would often photocopy his own part of a correspondence before sending a letter, meaning he retained a full record of an exchange. 

“I think he had a fear of losing stuff,” Francesca says. “He would copy everything, even sometimes copy prints onto photocopier paper which was then glossy finish, like fax paper.”

“In the barn, there were these containers everywhere, like as though you could put things in a box, control what was happening to them. As though they could contain all your thoughts.”

“He always had notebooks in his pocket and of course that was a memory aid as well. He wasn’t diagnosed with Alzheimer’s until quite late on, but he could have had it for some time.” 

On owning the moment, and on memory

Is it a terrible irony that Adrian Flowers would lose his memory at the end of his life, or was his drive to document everything so completely a touch of prescience? 

Either way, metaphors abound surrounding memory loss and his archive: fading negatives, fading memories. Filing cabinets with some contents missing. The erasure of vinegar syndrome.

“He was getting bad around 2012, and by bad, I mean he was just doing strange things and starting to be forgetful,” Francesca says. 

Francesca did a Masters at Canterbury Christ Church University in 2018, two years after her father’s death: its title was My Father, My Self: A Reflection on the Photography Archive of Adrian Flowers. It was a catharsis, she says: a way of confronting her father’s death but also some very strong themes.

“It became a much more personal study, really to do with memory, and loss and Alzheimer’s and chaos,” she says. 

A childhood in front of the lens

Francesca describes a childhood that wasn’t without its difficulties. Adrian had married her mother, Angela, when Angela was just 19. The couple had four children, three boys and then Francesca, but split when their youngest was seven: while her brothers lived with their father, Francesca lived with her mum and her mum’s new partner. 

Adrian would later marry again, but didn’t have children with his second wife, with whom he stayed until his death. Francesca’s parents were energetic, creative, but frequently career-driven.

“My mother was starting her own art gallery from the time that I was six,” Francesca says. And her father was very hard-working and focussed on his work. 

One way that Francesca could ensure she was the focus was to position herself in front of her father’s camera. 

“I think the studio represented some sort of stability for me because my parents divorced when I was seven,” she says. 

“I don’t remember them together, probably because my dad was at work. I loved the studio. He had this little wooden train that must have been a prop from something and I’d go whizzing around on it. It wasn’t a large studio: it was a converted house, really. He had a very high atrium where he could have his 10-8 camera up on a tower, with a balcony.” 

“I really enjoyed being photographed: there are plenty of photos of all of us children but I suppose I was his only daughter and I think he found that quite interesting after three sons. I would just go into his studio and say, ‘I’m here, take photographs of me.’ Any opportunity, to get in the studio and be photographed.” 

“I remember I bought this Biba outfit and I was clad from head to foot in purple, and his assistants did my hair and nails and I was like, this is my big moment. Probably because I knew he was photographing models. It sounds very precocious, but really I was quite a shy and painful child. I definitely would have been vying for some attention there.”

Having spent some time in boarding school in her teens, Francesca moved to Australia at 19, returned to London and spent a year working in her father’s studio doing colour processing, worked in TV for a time. Later, at 30, she would attend University to study not photography, but music: a cellist and pianist, she plays with several well-known West Cork musicians including Tess Leak and Susan McManamon.

“The archive is wonderful but it’s kind of tough going, and the music just keeps things balanced,” she says. 

Photographs as proof

Photos aren’t proof, Francesca, more than anyone, knows. A photographer chooses their frame and their moment, engineers and orchestrates. But we live in a world where photos are frequently seen as representing truth, as evidence that something has happened. 

Adrian Flowers was renowned for his technical abilities, pre-Photoshop, to stage elaborate, fantastical set-ups for commercial work: Benson & Hedges ad campaigns, Kit Kat ads, many requiring composite images or large props to achieve. Many of these are far more in the Pictorialist tradition, where photography was seen as a tool to achieve an artistic effect, than an attempt at documenting the real.  

“That’s the thing about photographs: they’re proof, and then they’re not,” Francesca says. “You think because they exist, it’s proof that something happened, and that’s really complicated. It’s not only to do with trickery: if someone is smiling in a photo, are they really happy? How do you know?” 

Yet digging into her father’s archive and unearthing snapshots of her family intermingled with Adrian’s commercial work has been a revelation. There are echoes of an earlier life she doesn’t recall, not least amongst pictures of the family in Ireland. 

Adrian and Francesca’s mum, Angela, acquired a holiday home in Rosscarbery in the fifties and there are many images of West Cork in the Flowers archive.

“I have early memories of being in Ireland,” Francesca says. “We spent every Easter and summer coming over. The family house is still here, and those years were very happy, mostly. I have bitter-sweet memories, mixed memories, but overall very good.” 

“I found all these very happy shots of me as a baby, doing things with my mum, all of us laughing together. So I wrote about it in my thesis. A baby can’t pretend to be happy, surely? There was genuine happiness in those photographs.”

“That was a real revelation to me, because I had convinced myself that I had been a bit unhappy and I didn’t have memories of my parents together, but obviously they were together, at that particular moment. There I was with my mum, being photographed by my dad. So that was like proof, even if I’m contradicting myself. But it’s all a constant contradiction, in a way. “

The Flowers’ holiday home on Mill Cove Road, Rosscarbery. Photo courtesy of the Adrian Flowers Archive

When her father was ill, this curious contradiction surrounding the role photography plays memory and perceptions of reality was driven home.

“Once he had this portrait of his sister and he started telling me, completely lucidly, ‘Hazel drowned recently, and her poor husband must be so upset.’ Of course she hadn’t drowned, but he’d made up this whole story about her life, how she died.”

“I didn’t disagree, because you can really upset someone with Alzheimer’s by contradicting them. So I just went along with it. But I was fascinated by how sure he was: it was like the photograph was giving him the certainty that the story he was constructing was true.” 

West Cork photos

The Adrian Flowers archive covers a time period from the 1950s until the 1990s, an extraordinary cultural treasure trove spanning decades of immense societal and technological change. 

Envelopes of jobs in the archive filing cabinets: each envelope contains a different quantity of negatives, transparencies, prints, polaroids. Photo: Ellie O’Byrne

Open one drawer of the filing cabinet and you find adverts for make-up, lager, cigarette ads in an era when these were glamorous and appealing. There’s food photography, fashion, stunning portraiture, and stranger things too: one envelope contains photos of a woman’s swollen, injured ankle, seemingly as evidence for some kind of court case. 

There are endless opportunities for exhibitions on different themes. “I definitely want to do an exhibition of his early West Cork photographs because they are very beautiful,” Francesca says. 

“Those are mostly 35mm slides. He was taking pictures all the time when he was here, but no-one ever got to see them: he’d have them processed, pick them up from the lab, bring the box back, and they’d never be seen again. There was never time.” 

There’s no denying that the archive reflects an enormous legacy: although Adrian himself didn’t become a household name or “star” photographer, and preferred to refer to himself as a technician rather than as a creative, his studio was prolific and professionally sought after. 

Some of his assistants went on to become very well known, not least Brian Duffy, who worked in fashion and is very well known for his Aladdin Sane photograph of David Bowie. Chris Killip, best known for his photographs of working class English communities, was another assistant. 

Boys swimming in Baltimore, 1968. Photo: The Adrian Flowers archive

“Dad had such broad interests and his personal work was very important to him as well,” Francesca says. “I’m in awe of how much work he did.” 

“He called himself a technician and was not at all keen on being called an artist, which I really respect. I love his creative work but I don’t think it makes him an artist: it’s just as valid to say he’s a craftsperson and that’s what he would say. A craftsperson, a technician.” 

Although he never officially retired, Adrian began withdrawing from his commercial work during the advent of digital photography. 

“He didn’t like digital, for a variety of reasons,” Francesca says. “He was really good at doing everything in camera, and that was what people went to him for, because he was able to solve really complicated problems and set-ups. I don’t think he thought his brain could manage the transition: I don’t think he thought it would suit him.” 

After his death, while his widow was selling the Lot-et-Garonne house, Francesca arranged for his archive to be moved, first to Kent, where she was based at the time, and into storage. 

Now that she and her partner are renovating a house in Ballydehob, the archive has found a home of sorts, at least temporarily. She and Peter Murray have been resorting a former shop on the West Cork town’s main street for the past two years, and on the ground floor, there is space for the archive, even for small exhibitions. 

Peter, with decades of curatorial experience in the arts world, has been assisting her with a website, The Adrian Flowers Archive, which started as a lockdown project where he writes on various themes and she collates the images. 

“Thanks to Peter, we started the blog and he’s done about 40 posts now,” she says. “We didn’t know where to start but he’s done amazing research and very good writing, while I’d collate as many photos as I could. I’m so chuffed about that because it gives the project a value and meaning and structure.” 

In the longer term, Francesca knows she will need assistance with her sometimes overwhelming task, and would consider donating it to an educational institute, somewhere with more resources than her own. The preservation and upkeep of the archive is by no means secure, and digitisation raises its own questions. 

“The aim is to digitise it, but then do you get rid of the originals, the material?” she says. “That makes me really nervous. Where do you store all that digital material? Digital formats don’t last forever, either.” 

A vase of flowers

On the filing cabinet behind Francesca there’s a vase: a metallic vessel, a classical shape like something from a still life. The story behind it belies Adrian Flowers’ representation of himself as a technician rather than an artist.

“This vase, to me, really represents him,” She says. “He designed it himself, and he’d have them made in different materials: a perspex one, a clay one, this one, which is resin with a metallic finish. It was the same design and he’d have it repeated.” 

“If he was travelling, he would bring one with him and position it somewhere and photograph it, as though it were himself.”

To Francesca, this impulse is a precursor to today’s selfies and Instagram culture: a clever device, based on her father’s wordplay around his own name – his letterhead also featured a vase – but also quite a lot more. 

“I find it quite moving and comforting, because wherever I’m living now, I have one of his vases,” she says. “It’s like he’s here.”

A Flowers vase, and the New York skyline. Photo: The Adrian Flowers Archive

“Burn it”

Although Adrian rigorously, almost obsessively, documented his life’s work, it’s by no means clear that he saw it as forming a legacy beyond his own personal use. 

“I always remember him saying, ‘there’s never enough time.’ I think he thought that once he got to France he’d have time to sort it out,” Francesca says. “I think he just thought it was…his.”

“I did ask him once, while he was still lucid. I said, ‘what are you going to do with all this?’ And he said, ‘just burn it.’ I don’t know how serious he was.”

Contact sheets for a portrait session with author Edna O’Brien, courtesy of the Adrian Flowers archive

With no will or official road map and just one possibly off-hand comment to go on, and conscious of what an enormous resource and social history the archive is, Francesca does not intend to burn the contents of the filing cabinets. Even when she feels she’s facing a Herculean task. 

Twiggy, 1966

“The fact remains that he didn’t say categorically what he wanted done,” she says. “It’s not as if he left a will that said, ‘this is what I want done with my effects.’ Equally, he left no means to support it, so it’s without resources. But I like to think that eventually, people will get a lot of pleasure out of seeing these.”

“There’s still so much to discover and I’m still seeing pictures I’ve never seen before. Can you image how distracted you can get, when you open one of these drawers? I just want to keep it alive, really.”

Categories
Adrian Flowers Photography Archive

Intrinsic Values

Opening of Un Certain Regard May 2025

Francesca Flowers. Photograph by Peter Murray

Adrian Flowers, Vase and Egg, 1988

L’espoir dans un vase ?

Un vase se trouve dans plusieurs photos exposées.

Le vase est une forme que l’on retrouve dans plusieurs œuvres d’Adrian Flowers dans la deuxième partie de sa carrière, et l’intention était bien de chercher à mettre en évidence une coïncidence non fortuite avec son nom ! Adrian Flowers a longtemps cherché le genre d’objet qui soit une sorte de récipient, pas nécessairement beau ni d’un design compliqué, ayant seulement une forme qui s’écarte un peu de ce qu’on entend habituellement par vase. À première vue, c’est un récipient banal, mais conçu avec une différence : le haut est plus large que celui des vases courants, sa forme s’apparente un peu à une sorte de petite jarre, suggérant l’idée que le contenu peut s’en échapper facilement. 

Considéré comme un symbole, ce vase est un clin d’œil à la fameuse Boîte de Pandore qui était en réalité une jarre, pithos en grec, scellée pour empêcher la dispersion de son contenu. Lorsque le seau de la jarre fut retiré inopportunément, par curiosité, tous les maux du monde s’en échappèrent ne laissant dans la jarre qu’une seule chose, l’espoir. Donner de l’espoir, c’est faire entrevoir à tout un chacun que tout n’est pas perdu dans l’existence. 

Adrian Flowers 

(traduction de Françoise Lina-Flowers)

Talk by Francesca Flowers about the Adrian Flowers exhibition.
May 2025. Photograph by Peter Murray


Categories
Adrian Flowers Photography Archive

Adrian Flowers featured in Zoom Magazine

Zoom – Le Magazine de l’Image, 1980
Categories
Adrian Flowers Photography Archive Musicians

Nelly Ben-Or MBE

Nelly Ben-Or photographed by Adrian Flowers in November 1963. This image was used for the cover of her autobiography in 2019.

Beginning in March 1964, over the course of two years Adrian Flowers photographed the concert pianist Nelly Ben-Or on three separate occasions. The first two sittings were on 20 March and 25 March 1963, while the third was on 13 November 1964 [Archive nos. 4495, 4505, and 4952 respectively]. The commission came from a ‘Mrs. Clore’, presumably a friend or patron of the musician. The first session involved both head and shoulder portraits, with Nelly, then aged thirty, wearing a plain dress. The photographs were taken in a domestic interior.

Nelly Ben-Or, March 1963. Photograph by Adrian Flowers

There is also a sequence where she stands, or sits at a Steinway grand piano, with her hair coiffured, wearing an evening dress. The photographs show a dark-haired beautiful woman. In some, she has a serious expression, in others a captivating smile, but in several can be discerned hints of the traumas she had endured during her lifetime.

Nelly Ben-Or, March 1963. Photograph by Adrian Flowers

The November 1964 photographs show Nelly sitting again at a Steinway piano, but this time she is dressed simply and has her hair tied back. These may have been taken in a rehearsal room at the Guildhall School of Music. One of these photographs was used on the cover of her autobiography Ashes to Light: A Holocaust Childhood to a Life in Music, published in 2019. A frank narrative, it recounts the nightmares of life under Nazi rule, and the joy of liberation,  but also the inevitable periods of depression and post-traumatic stress, from which only music could liberate her.

Born in 1933 in Lwów, eastern Poland (now Lviv, in Ukraine) Nelly Ben-Or came from a middle-class Jewish family. Her mother’s family name was Linden, while her father, Leon Podhoretz, was a travelling salesman for L & C Hardtmuth, a company based in České Budejovice that manufactured fountain pens and Koh-i-noor propelling pencils. However, the peace and security of Nelly’s childhood was destroyed when Germany invaded Poland in 1939. Although the Molotov-Ribbentrop Pact meant the city initially came under Soviet control, Operation Barbarossa overturned that, and Nelly spent the war years fearing for her life. From the age of five, she had played the piano, but when German soldiers raided her home and confiscated everything of value, including the piano, the family was forced to move to a ghetto, where conditions were grim. Her mother and sister Fryderyka managed to survive, but her father was taken to Janowska concentration camp and murdered. Helped by a Dr. Poldi, Nelly and her mother Antonina fled Lviv. Using false identity papers and pretending to be Catholics, they travelled by train to Warsaw, where they stayed with the Topolskis, a Christian family. The Topoloskis protected them, but when neighbours became suspicious, they had to move on. Antonina found work as a maid with the Kowalskis, and Nelly was given piano lessons along with the daughter of the family. But once again neighbours became suspicious. During the Warsaw Ghetto uprising she and her mother were rounded up and narrowly escaped being sent to a concentration camp. By now penniless refugees, they found shelter in a converted pigsty in Pruszków where they lived in great poverty. Hearing the sound of a piano from a nearby house, they met a piano teacher who took pity and gave Nelly lessons each day. While enduring these hardships, Nelly dreamed of being able to live free from persecution and in 1950 she was awarded a scholarship to study under Henrietta Michaelson at the Music Academy in Jerusalem. Two years later she won first prize at the Mozart Piano Competition in Israel.

In 1960 Nelly moved to England, where she met and married Roger Clynes. Her mother later joined her in England. Nelly and her husband settled in Northwood in London. Their daughter Daniela has gone on to become a noted jazz singer, creating a number of solo shows including Journey, based on her mother’s life and escape from the Warsaw Ghetto. Nelly has had a long and distinguished career as a concert pianist, and since 1975 has been a teacher at the Guildhall School of Music. Inspired and taught by Patrick MacDonald, she uses the Alexander Technique as part of piano playing. Her many CDs include Czech Piano Quartets, Chopin Dances, Beethoven Bagatelles and Schubert Impromptus. In 2020 Nelly received the MBE for services to Holocaust education. 

Nelly Ben-Or, November 1964. Photograph by Adrian Flowers

Text: Peter Murray

Editor: Francesca Flowers

All images subject to copyright.

Adrian Flowers Archive ©

Categories
Adrian Flowers Photography Archive

Interviews with Adrian Flowers

Hot Shoe Magazine

Categories
Actors Adrian Flowers Photography Archive

Vanessa Redgrave

Vanessa Redgrave, January 1962, photographed by Adrian Flowers

Born in Blackheath in 1937, the actor and activist Vanessa Redgrave comes from a family already famous in the world of stage and screen. The daughter of Sir Michael Redgrave and Rachel Kempson, and sister of Colin and Lynn Redgrave, after studying at the Central School of Speech and Drama, in 1958 she made her stage debut in A Touch of Sun. The following year she appeared in A Midsummer Night’s Dream and two years later was widely praised for her portrayal of Rosalind in the Royal Shakespeare Company’s productions of As You Like It.In 1962, still a rising star in the world of theatre, and by now married to the film director Tony Richardson, Redgrave played Imogen in Cymbeline, directed by Bill Gaskill for the RSC at the Aldwych Theatre. That year she featured in Mademoiselle magazine in the United State, with photographs by Sandra Lousada and was also on the cover of the June 4th international issue of Life magazine, dressed for her role as Rosalind. 

On Monday 22nd  January 1962, Redgrave’s name appears in the studio diary of the Adrian Flowers studio:  “7.30 Flair  Vanessa Redgrave 13 Grenvill Pl  FRE2591 . .  pale yellow walls blue velvet dress”. Judging by the entry, the appointment was for a planned article in Flair magazine. While bearing the same name as the magazine founded by Fleur Fenton Cowles in 1950, the Flair magazine for which Adrian Flowers photographed Redgrave was a quite separate publication, specializing in fashion and beauty as well as feature articles. The diary entry indicates that the photograph session was to take place in Kensington; 13 Grenville Place is just north of Cromwell Road. The twelve photographs taken that evening are all informal, with Redgrave laughing, chatting and posing for the camera. While contact sheet 4169 consists of three strips of four images, making a total of twelve, one of the original negative strips is missing from the AF Archive—perhaps because it was sent to Flair magazine.

Vanessa Redgrave, January 1962, JN 4169,
photographed by Adrian Flowers

The images are beguiling. A seasoned professional, Redgrave is both relaxed and also aware of the camera, turning her head, smiling, and radiating confidence and a warm human spirit.  Since infancy, she had been photographed by some of the top names in photography, including Angus McBean, Yousuf Karsh, George Konig, Paul Tanqueray, and, in 1962, by Tony Eyles. Seven of the photographs by Adrian Flowers are head and shoulders, while the rest show her dressed in a high-necked shirt, with dark slacks and stockinged feet, sitting informally on a couch, legs crossed or feet resting on a low table. She wears no jewellery, little make-up, and her abundant hair is pinned back with a hairclip. The couch has sheets draped over it, to conceal the brightly patterned fabric. In several, she is smoking a cigarette. The background is a plain wall.In a period when portrait photography emphasized fashion, make-up and accessories, these photographs by Adrian Flowers stand out as a record of the person Vanessa Redgrave, direct, honest and fearless, rather than portraying her as a star of stage and screen.

Text: Peter Murray

Editor: Francesca Flowers

All images subject to copyright.

Adrian Flowers Archive ©

Categories
Adrian Flowers Photography Archive

Interviews with Adrian Flowers

PHOTO TECHNIQUE July 1975

Categories
Adrian Flowers Photography Archive Assistants at Adrian Flowers Studio

Ann Mallett

Ann Mallett, assistant to Adrian Flowers at his studio in Tite St, Chelsea, 1965/66

Among the many assistants who worked for Adrian Flowers over the years, Bob Cramp is one of several who stand out as photographers in their own right. Cramp began working in the studio around 1965. Initially he was a ‘first assistant’, tasked with helping Adrian. Soon however, he was showing more initiative, greeting clients, and discussing the shoot. Eventually he was setting up everything for the shoot. Understandably, Adrian began to place increasing confidence in Cramp, relying on him to take care of the difficult parts of a job, and coming to the studio when the photograph was ready to be taken. As soon as this was completed, Adrian and the client would go to lunch, while Cramp remained in the studio, supervising the development of the film. After a review of the negatives in the afternoon, there might be a final shoot. In addition to this work, Cramp took his own photographs, and in a series of negatives dating from 1967, Ann Mallett and two other assistants appear larking about, dressed in cowboy costumes—the costumes were from an advertising shoot for the clothing firm Acrilan and Borg. Eventually, both Adrian and Cramp agreed it was time for change, and so, with Adrian’s blessing and with Smirnoff as his first client, Cramp set up his own studio.

Ann Mallett (on the left) with colleagues
at Adrian Flowers studio.
Photograph by Adrian’s assistant Bob Cramp
Advertisement for The Borg Acrilan Warmcoat, October 1967.
Photograph by Adrian Flowers

It was during Cramp’s time at the studio, that Ann Mallett (Kirsop at the time) had been interviewed for the job of second assistant. She had secured the interview through Jonathan Reynolds, a friend of her brother’s, who was working for Adrian at the time. Mallett was nineteen years old, and remembers the experience as a bit overwhelming, as, carrying her art portfolio, she was ushered into the room and asked to sit on a large Chesterfield sofa. Although Mallett had no formal art training, she was a keen semi-professional artist, who specialised in finely-drawn portraits. Her portfolio was whisked away by Ray Hawkey, who went through her drawings, while Adrian, sitting in a vintage dentist’s chair—one of the more eccentric features of the Tite Street studios—quizzed Mallett as to her qualifications for becoming an assistant photographer. Mallett recalls little of what was said, her attention being drawn to the large tank, full of tropical fish, that was Adrian’s pride and joy. Hawkey then returned and had a quiet word with Adrian, commending her artwork. She got the job.

This involved working in the dark room, and she recalls Aubrey Rix giving her a roll of film to develop, on the strict understanding that its contents were not to be disclosed to anyone. Apparently, the roll of film contained images of frolics involving Britt Ekland, Peter Sellers and Lord Snowdon. Mallett worked on several shoots for ad campaigns, including one for brandy. She remembers other employees at the studio, including “the fabulous Mrs. Wines, a real character”. Working at the studio inevitably led to relationships, and in spite of Adrian’s disapproval, Mallet and studio printer Alan Blake got together, and Adrian attended their wedding.

Mrs Wines at Tite Street

After a disagreement with another employee at the studio, Seigfried Kerson, who took it upon himself to act as a HR manager, both Blake and Mallett left. Initially they worked in Germany, before returning to England, where Mallett worked at an advertising studio in Merton. She and Blake then raised a family.

She recalls with tremendous affection working at the Adrian Flowers studio at Tite Street, the years there being “some of the most memorable and exciting of my life—we all loved Uncle Ade”.

Contact sheet of photographs of Adrian Flowers by Ann Mallett, 1967

Portrait of Adrian Flowers by Ann Mallett

Text: Peter Murray

with thanks to Ann Mallett

Editor: Francesca Flowers

All images subject to copyright.

Adrian Flowers Archive ©

Categories
Adrian Flowers Photography Archive Adrian Flowers Studio Assistants at Adrian Flowers Studio Portraits

Tor Hildyard: Memories of working with Adrian Flowers (1974-1977)

Tor Hildyard, June 1974. Assistant to Adrian Flowers.
Photograph by Adrian Flowers

I first came to hear about Adrian when I was on holiday in Corfu in 1974. A friend of Kathy Vibert, who worked for Adrian, was also staying in the cottage and mentioned that Adrian was looking for another assistant.

When I got back from holiday, Kathy contacted me and asked if I would like to come for an interview. I had never been to a job interview before, let alone worked in photography and had only used a Zenit EM, but I was keen to learn and along I went to his studio in Tite Street.  Adrian was sitting on his old leather sofa in the reception room and began to question me on why I wanted to work for him, I think by the end, he only offered me the job because I had the right birth sign, Aquarius and was taller than his first assistant, Steve Garforth, so could reach things he couldn’t.

When I started working at Tite Street, Gala was the PA [see https://adrianflowersarchive.com/gala/]; later to be replaced by Issi Thomas. Steve Garforth the first assistant, [see https://adrianflowersarchive.com/steve-garforth/], Terry was the technician and film developer and Sigi was his agent. There was also the lovely Petrona, who kept the studio looking spick and span and fed us delicious West African food for a Christmas treat. I was paid the vast some of £10.00 a week, which I thought was a fortune and was catapulted into the world of advertising and long days.

Issi Thomas, June 1974. Assistant to Adrian Flowers.
Photograph by Adrian Flowers
Petrona George, June 1974. Assistant and friend to Adrian Flowers for 25 years at his studio in Tite Street.
Photograph by Adrian Flowers

It wasn’t long before I was promoted to help Terry develop the film, first by hand and then using the Adrian’s new toy, the Kalenta.  This machine was able to develop all that day’s shoot in one go and no more fumes to inhale. Magic. 
Until the 3-day week! Then disaster struck. With no warning at all, all the power was switched off and we were plunged into darkness, sometimes for hours. If this happened during the development of the film, all the chemicals poured in at once, immediately ruining the days shoot. So, to get over this, Adrian had to shoot twice as much, for back up. 
When I first started working at the studio, I didn’t drive, but that was soon sorted. Adrian used to teach me to drive round and round the inside roads of Battersea Park in his treasured Alvis. Nothing like jumping in the deep end!!  

1975 International Alvis Day, Knebworth. Assistant Ashok Koshy in the foreground.
Tor Hildyard and Steve Garforth standing behind.

In the time I worked for Adrian, I helped on many campaigns. The most memorable ones were for Silk Cut, John Players Special and the Wool Marketing Board, where he had sheep brought to the studio and photographed on coloured backgrounds. This wasn’t a great success, so Adrian, Steve and I moved down to Dorset and photographed them in a freezing cold barn, but the sheep were happier and we kept warm by drinking large quantities of Whiskey Mac! As it was early spring, the wool was beginning to fall off, so it was my job to sew it back on.

Some of the sheep photographed for the Wool Marketing Board advertisement. June 1974.
Photographs by Adrian Flowers

For the Silk Cut adds, we consumed lots of Irish Coffees before Adrian got the perfect swirl, when poured into the cup.

And then there was John Players Special, for one ad, I was asked by the Art Director to stand in for the model. I was photographed in bed and Sigi was in a phone box, smoking a cigarette.  I remember we took the pic of Sigi in the phone box, early in the morning on the Embankment and then the rest of the day working with the model in the studio. I can’t remember the name of the art director, but when the model left, he asked me to model instead. Steve wasn’t that happy that I had no top on, but we went ahead. I remember I was paid £10.00 for half an hour’s work, which I thought was a fortune. Sadly, it was rejected for the ad, as apparently it was too sexy!!

Also, for JPS, we went to a house down the Kings Road and had to sign a secrecy clause, as hidden away in a garage was the new prototype of the new JPS racing car. All very exciting.

In addition to working on adverts, Adrian worked for the Observer magazine. This was such interesting and unusual work, from portraits of people like Len Deighton and Clive James, as well as spending many weeks driving round the country looking for the different religions and their churches. We went to a Mosque in Woking, a Jewish scribe in Hackney and a Bar Mitzvah in North London. Also, we found a Buddhist temple on the top floor of a house in Ecclestone Square.  

Madame Tussauds article for the Observer, 25.2.75
Photograph by Adrian Flowers

I loved working for Adrian, we were like one big family, and the fact that so many of us kept in touch all our lives, just shows what a special man he was.


Text: Tor Hildard

Editor: Francesca Flowers

All images subject to copyright.

Adrian Flowers Archive ©

Categories
Adrian Flowers Photography Archive Editorial

London Coffee Bar Culture 1954

Dated July 1954, a contact sheet in the Adrian Flowers Archive shows both the interior and exterior of Chiquito, a coffee bar and café on Hanway Street, off Tottenham Court Road. There are several photographs of the café exterior, taken at night, with crowds gathered on the pavement. In one, the rear wing of a parked Alvis reflects the photographer’s lights. Most of the photographs were taken inside the coffee bar and show people sitting at tables. However, one shot, taken from above, shows a crowd gathered around the bar where a young man operates a Victoria Arduno coffee machine. The event was a publicity bash to celebrate the arrival of coffee machines in London and the rise of the coffee bar. Although the Bar Italia, founded in 1949, had an espresso machine, it was not until four years later that the media spotlight shone on London’s coffee bars, when Gina Lollabrigida opened Pino Riservato’s Moka bar at 11 Frith Street. The agent for Gaggia in the UK, Riservato then opened a second bar, Moka-Ris on Dean Street, which had a machine installed by 1953, as did the rapidly proliferating bars such as El Cubano in Knightsbridge, and the “2i’s” on Old Compton Street, where Tommy Steele and other young musicians made their name. 

Cafe Cabana on Princes Street, London

In Adrian’s photographs, on the bar at Chiquito can be seen jugs of hot milk, and small espresso cups and saucers. Unlike other coffee bars that sported Picassoesque ceramics by William Newland, Margaret Hine and Nicholas Vergette, the interior of Chiquito was inexpensively decorated with plants in terracotta pots, brightly patterned fabric and shiplap cladding, while a sign read ‘Café espresso – open till midnight’. 

Interior of the Mocamba coffee bar in Brompton Road

In one photo, Angela, dressed in dark slacks, is seated at the bar and turning to look out onto the street—very much a ‘cool cat’ of 50’s Soho. The photograph is taken from outside the plate glass door, looking in to the brightly-lit interior.

Angela Flowers at Cafe Cabana 1954. Photograph by Adrian Flowers

The coffee bar phenomenon in London and other British cities attracted a huge amount of media attention, “and in August 1954, Picture Post ran a feature “A Red-head in Search of Black Coffee” in which Adrienne Corri, promoting her film Make Me an Offer, visited coffee bars in London, including the Moulin Rouge at 38 Hanway Street. It was during this tour that Adrian photographed Corri and Angela Flowers together, and his photographs were used in the Picture Post article.

Picture Post article 21st August 1954. Photographs by Adrian Flowers

Angela Flowers and Adrienne Corri at Moka-Ris coffee bar (on Dean Street) 1954.
Photograph by Adrian Flowers

The building at 32 Hanway Street, where Chiquito flourished in the 1950’s, has a long history. Developed in 1819 by a painter and glazier named William Watson, in the late nineteenth century it was for several months the home of the Irish-American artist William Harnett, who was born in Clonakilty, Co. Cork, in 1848. In 1879 Harnett, by then a celebrated still-life painter, was in London, living in Hanway Street. In the twentieth century, No 32 became the Dickens Chop House, and around 1955 it was transformed into the Chiquito coffee bar, one of several Mediterranean-styled cafes set up on Hanway Street. In 1957 Chiquito was licensed for ‘two guitar players and no dancing’, and had a ‘skiffle singing room’ in the basement. In 1959 the café featured in Expresso Bongo, the film that first introduced Cliff Richard to a wide audience.

The Moulin Rouge at 38 Hanway Street, London was close to
Chiquitos, which was at 32

Ironically, by the time the film was released, Cafe Chiquito’s heyday as a ‘cool cats’ café was over, and the introduction of a striptease act the following year spelled the end of what had been a teen institution. Hanway Street became synonymous with sleaze, with a resident opposing the renewal of licenses to the cafes, on the grounds of ‘nuisances of various sorts ranging from simple urination to sexual intercourse in the doorways’.

Text: Peter Murray

Editor: Francesca Flowers

All images subject to copyright.

Adrian Flowers Archive ©